My favorite afghans...

We started this blog in an effort to create an archive of our projects.  In that spirit, I wanted to take some time to record some of my favorite afghan patterns.  These are patterns that I turn to when I need a project for TV watching or a quick baby blanket.  I don't know if they have names, and I'm not sure where most of the patterns come from.  If you know, let me know!

I think the first one is from Drew Emborski... I think I saw him demonstrate the pattern on a craft show at some point.  I love it because once the foundation is made, there is very little thought involved.  It's interesting, but not complicated.  I have done it in big chunky yarns, boucle yarns, and most recently in worsted weight for a baby blanket.  My favorite is this blue one made with a big chunky yarn and a size L hook.  It measures about 4' wide by 6' long.

• Start with a foundation of DC stitches - any multiple of 12 plus 7 more stitches.  
• DC across the second row and all even rows.
• Change colors, and then work *(1 dc, 1 fptr) 3 times, 6 dc*.  Repeat from * to * to the end of the row ending with 1 dc.
• On the next odd numbered row, change color and work *6 dc, (1 dc, 1 fptr) 3 times*.  Repeat from * to * to the end of the row ending with 7 dc.
• fptr = Front post triple crochet around the post of the stitch 2 rows below.
• Repeat these four rows until the blanket is as big as you want.

This is the throw my mom made way back in the mid 70s.
  It was just inexpensive acrylic yarn, and it has held up
beautifully through lots of washing!

The next afghan that I like to make is the ripple pattern.  I think I am drawn to this one because it was so popular in the '70s and that is when my mom was making them.  You can make them as wide as you want and you can evenly space the ripples or do them randomly.  I usually start with a foundation chain that is about twice as long as I want the afghan.  (I don't really count the chain stitches because I will just untie any excess chains later.)  Then just start by skipping one chain stitch, working 5 sc into the next 5 bumps, work 3 sc into the next bump (double increase), work 5 sc into the next 5 bumps, then sc 3 bumps together (double decrease).  Continue like this across the row until you finish the last double increase and 5 sc.  Chain 1 and turn.  Skip the first stitch and repeat working into the back loops only.  Now, all that matters is that you put your increases at the tops of the peaks and you put your decreases at the bottom of the valleys.  You can do sc, dc, hdc, or whatever you want.  You could do 5 stitches between increase for one peak and then do 2 stitches between the next peak.  I have seen some patterns that want a decrease at the end of each row, but I don't bother.  I think it's easier to just not work the last stitch or two and then turn.  I like the scalloped look of the edge like this.

This pattern is really versatile.  You can use any yarn you want with any hook you want.  A cool self-striping yarn would be super easy.  It would also be a great way to clear out your stash of scrap yarns.  Choose a great big chunky yarn with a big hook and you can make one of these in a hurry!

WIP Wednesday

I was looking for some sort of ornament to decorate my little flower bed.  I wanted something that showcased my love for quilting and crafting and I came up with the idea to build a miniature clothes line and hang a quilt from it.  I also plan to knit miniature socks and maybe even sew some mini boxer briefs to hang from the line.  It also seems like there should be some birds on the lines, so I will probably do some amigurumi to gild the lily a bit further!

I have started with the quilt, and here's where it is so far!  Given the debate over gay marriage, I decided that a contemporary spin on the double wedding ring quilt was appropriate.  The quilt measures about 24" by 30".  I just need to finish the binding and add a label.  I think I will probably do some more mini-quilts so I can change them up with the seasons... Maybe bargello next?

So far, the only stumbling block I can foresee is where the heck do I get miniature clothes pins?

-- Dale--

WIP Wednesdays

This is my "sittin'-on-the-couch-watchin'-TV" project for the summer.  If you are a fan of "Scandal", then you may have noticed the afghan on the back of Olivia Pope's couch.  That's my inspiration.  I started with a long tail cast on of 184 stitches on size 10.5 needles.  I worked 4 rows of garter stitch.  Then I began and ended every row with 4 knit stitches followed by a 4x1 rib.  I am twisting every other welt every 6th row.  If I were to do it again, I would have twisted every 12th row.  I think the cables are a bit too close together and would look better if they were more subtle.  This type of knitting is a great project to keep your fingers busy without taking too much of you brain power!
 - - Dale - -

Simple Scrappy Tote Bag

When it comes time to start using up the bits of leftover fabric, I like to make a tote bag.  Recently, I have begun making tote bags out of the leftover fabric from each quilt that I make.  This makes a really cool gift bag for the quilt!  If it's a good size, the bag can be used as a diaper bag or a shopping bag.  Make it smaller for a lunch bag.  Add straps to it and it can become a backpack.  Once you get the basic technique down you can play with shape and size to make a designer handbags by adding flaps, buttons, zippers, pockets, etc.

To make one, the only thing I have to buy is a bit of craft weight stabilizer.  You don't really need it, but the bag can be a bit floppy without it.  Everything else is left over from the quilt.  The first step is to decide how big you want it to be.  I find that a queen-size quilt fits well into a bag that measures 6" deep, 12" wide, and 16" tall.  This is also a good size for a reusable shopping bag.  

Cutting List

Front/Back - Cut one rectangle 21" wide by 37" tall

Batting - Cut one rectangle 21" wide by 43" tall

Interfacing - Cut one rectangle 21" wide by 43" tall

Lining - Cut two rectangles 21" wide by 20" tall

Straps - Cut two strips 3" wide by at least 25" long

interfacing - Cut two strips 1" wide by at least 24" long

Note:  The front/back piece will form both the front and the back of the bag.  If your pattern is directional, then add one inch, cut it in half, and then sew it together again so that the top of the pattern is at both ends of the rectangle.

The straps can be any length you want them to be... They just have to be the same length so that each handle ends up the same size in the end.  Another option would be to purchase nylon webbing straps, but that would be something else to buy and wouldn't use up the stash of scraps!

All pieces are a bit over-sized to accommodate shrinkage during the quilting process.  We will trim them to the correct dimension later.

Please also keep in mind that this is supposed to be scrappy.  For this bag, I chose to use big pieces of fabrics from my stash so the pictures would clearly show the lining versus the front of the bag.  I didn't have enough solid brown, so I added a strip of a batik that I had left over.  Normally I would have assembled strips and scraps and leftover blocks to make the front/back piece.

Technique

Make a quilt sandwich by layering the interfacing on the back, then the batting, and then the front/back rectangle.  The batting and interfacing should extend 3" beyond both ends of the front/back piece.

Quilt this piece as desired.  I usually do straight line quilting because it's quick and easy, but this is a small quilt which makes it an ideal candidate to get creative and practice your free-motion quilting.  I would also suggest you pull all your thread tails to the back of the quilt.  The back side will be inside the bag and covered by the lining, so it's an easy place to hide the thread tails.

Now trim the top and bottom edges so they extend 2" above the raw edge of the quilt top.  

With right sides together, align the lining fabric with the raw edge of the front fabric and stitch a half inch from the raw edge.  Repeat on the other end.  Press the lining fabric up to make a huge rectangle that measures 21" wide by 75" tall. 

 Mark a line 2" above the seam you just made (on the lining) and top-stitch on the line.  This stitching should catch the loose layers of the batting and interfacing on the back of the quilt.

Fold the quilt in half (meeting right sides) carefully matching up the seams along both sides.  Press a fold along the bottom edge.  

Now use your rotary cutter to trim both sides of the bag so the sides are square to the bottom fold and the bag is 19" wide.  

With the bag still folded, cut a 3" square from each corner of the lining fabric and cut two rectangles from the folded end that are 2 1/2" from the folded edge and 3" from the raw edge.  

Carefully pin along both sides of the bag taking particular care to match all seam lines.  Stitch with a half-inch seam.  Do not stitch the end of the lining fabric or you will not be able to turn the bag right side out!  If you have a serger, now is the time to use it.  If not, just sew a half-inch seam and press the seam allowance open.  

Turn the bag right-side out and finish up by sewing the bottom of the lining.  Again, serge this edge if you have a serger and call it finished.  Otherwise, press the raw edges to the inside and top-stitch as close to the edge as you can... it's on the inside of the bag, so it doesn't have to be pretty, but you don't want it to be ugly, either!

Now tuck the outer shell of the bag into the lining of the bag... so the bag is inside out.  On each corner, line up all seam allowances with the fold of the bottom of the bag.  Stitch along the raw edges with a half-inch seam allowance.  Again, use your serger if you have one, otherwise use some binding strips to finish the raw edges.

Once both corners are finished, turn everything right-side out and press everything pretty.  Then top stitch in the ditch from the front around the top edge of the bag.

To make the straps, press a quarter-inch fold along one edge of both strips of fabric.  Lay the interfacing strips along the center of the strip.  Fold over both ends of the fabric over the ends of the interfacing and press in place.  Fold the raw edges over the interfacing and then fold the folded edges over the raw edge and press in place.  The folded edge should end up in the center of the strap.  Take it to the machine and top-stitch along the folded center seam, and along both edges.

Pin the straps to the front and back of the bag and top-stitch with a reinforcement stitch of your choice.  I try to place the straps centered with 6" between each end, and about 2 1/2" from the top edge of the bag.  

Your bag is complete!  

By the way, the reinforcement stitches would look much nicer if you didn't use a variegated thread like I did!  Try to match the thread color to your straps for a much neater appearance!

One more note about the handles of the bag.  I am making this tote to use as a gift bag for one of our quilts.  I am not too concerned about the strength of the handle.  However, if I were planning to use the bag for heavy groceries, I would have done a much more secure handle using 1" nylon webbing.  I would start with at least ten feet.  After I quilted the front/back piece, but before I added the lining pieces, I would pin the webbing to the quilt surface and top-stitch it in place taking extra care to reinforce the stitching at the top edge of the bag.  Then I would carefully pin the handles out of the way as I completed the bag.  This method gives you handles that actually support the entire bag from the bottom up!